Watches inform us concerning the current or the previous; the longer term is mostly out of attain, besides at a good just like the just lately concluded Watches and Wonders Geneva. You may need caught a few of our favourites and highlights over the past week, and possibly caught up on all of the information wherever you get your horological repair. So, what does all of it say concerning the 12 months of watchmaking that’s to return? In 2024, the reply is easy: high-value valuable metallic fashions.
Gold is king at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 and right here we’ll danger repeating ourselves as a result of Rolex and Patek Philippe distinguished themselves with a big majority of novelties within the valuable stuff. If one provides platinum into the combination, then valuable metals dominate. The dominant market pressure and essentially the most outstanding status participant have however one new chrome steel mannequin between them. We’d by no means have imagined typing that sentence earlier than the honest began and it nonetheless feels unbelievable. And but it’s merely a reality. Make no mistake although, it’s nonetheless the period of sports activities class however maybe we are able to name this sports activities class elevated (SEE).
This isn’t solely concerning the crimson gold TAG Heuer Skipper, the complete gold Tudor Black Bay 58 and the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Gray Metal and Gold but in addition the all-gold Parmigiani Fleurier Toric the place dials and calibres are additionally in gold. We may go on and listing extra, and we’ll. Each of the novelties at A. Lange & Sohne are in valuable metals and so is the only Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad, clearly. At IWC, your complete new Portogieser Horizon Blue variant is simply in white gold whereas the brand new Duometre watches at Jaeger-LeCoultre are completely in gold, besides the chrome steel Quatieme Lunaire. Evidently, the Piaget Polo 79 is a giant previous gold brick, whereas the vast majority of Cartier’s 66 novelties this 12 months are in valuable metals, and that goes as much as 100% at Van Cleef & Arpels.
In case your first thought in listening to all that is that issues are going to get costly, you might be after all appropriate. It isn’t a response to growing wealth on the earth. You may need observed from latest information reviews on Swiss watchmaking exports that issues are hardly wanting up. Fairly the alternative. It might be although that demand for the costliest types of watches is extra resilient (as historical past demonstrates), so the enchantment for watchmakers is evident. As well as, margins are higher within the valuable metals sport (although not essentially in problems however that’s one other matter) and firms similar to Rolex and Patek Philippe need to reward their retail companions. A number of that we spoke with agreed.
To make sure, that is one interpretation of the novelties of 2024 however we really feel assured that it’s a very apparent one. Additionally it is of apparent concern for collectors and fanatics, who’ve been primarily fascinated with metal watches – it’s downright ominous for followers of bronze and different novelty supplies. Rolex didn’t even introduce extra fashions in titanium however perhaps it’ll dedicate a complete 12 months for this, simply because it did with valuable metals in 2024.
For extra on the posh watch reads and the newest in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, click on right here.